And the oh so painful sensation of an abrubt stop. To jump is exhilerating, but to land can be a bit less enjoyable unless a proper preperation is made. Hence the trauma climbing to the great heights of economic wealth without an adequate safety net. And also hence the thrill of slicing through a giant wave while forgetting to avoid the facepart of my head hitting the planet earth. But please, let me rewind.
Sunday November 30th was a quite fabulous surf day. C-Street Ventura saw consistant sets of double overhead waves. My first session with the Gene and Larry from the am crew at 7:30 went pretty well and brought out my five dollar, 8 foot board I bought a yard sale.
It took a little repair work
but it is my favorite as it rides like a mini long board, is super light and fun. But that day with the current so strong, I switched up to the Rat Board for session 2
after breakfast and headed back out with Brian Rat and his two friends as they drove up from down south. All good and the waves were building and we lasted about an hour and a half before heading in.
So exhausted from over three hours out already and pulling out of the parking lot I get a text message from Johnny who Ventura locals may know from Tony's Pizzeria, an awesome cool Pizza spot right up the street. So out of the parking lot and up to park again just up the way and 15 minutes later I am wet suited up for session number three. Oh my, my arm are rubbery and I get the longest surf ride I have ever ridden. Google earth says it is just under a half mile.
I wish I still had a picture of the surf that day to show you but that is another story. Anyway, thrilled and so happy I go to exit the water and a little wave comes up behind me while paddling in and boom crunch ow! Turns out the strong current had dug a trench and while I was trying to paddle in, what seemed to be a small wave jacks up with the tail of my board and shovels me head first into the planet earth. I got no mirror but but my hand indicates lots o blood. Dazed and delerious I stumbled myself out and found an overwhelming desire to lay down and regoup my thoughts and contemplate the long hike bak to the car. Next thing I know the lifegaurds and paramedics have me surrounded and won't let me escape.
I must say that it really smarts to try and restraighten one's own broken nose. I got to ride in a lifeguard pickup truck and an ambulance and most of all I want to thank Johnny for being a hero and looking out for me. He recued my car, brought me my clothes and made sure my surfboard had a safe place to stay till I escaped stich giving nurses and hospital world.
14 stitches and a broken nose and no surfing for three weeks later I was back on track. Not that I missed a day of work.
Most importantly, don't worry, I know what you are thinking and it is ok, the Rat surfboard is fine! What comes to mind is a short story that Anthony K told me once, so I looked it up and found it:
The Story of the Taoist Farmer
This farmer had only one horse, and one day the horse ran away. The neighbors came to condole over his terrible loss. The farmer said, "What makes you think it is so terrible?"
A month later, the horse came home--this time bringing with her two beautiful wild horses. The neighbors became excited at the farmer's good fortune. Such lovely strong horses! The farmer said, "What makes you think this is good fortune?"
The farmer's son was thrown from one of the wild horses and broke his leg. All the neighbors were very distressed. Such bad luck! The farmer said, "What makes you think it is bad?"
A war came, and every able-bodied man was conscripted and sent into battle. Only the farmer's son, because he had a broken leg, remained. The neighbors congratulated the farmer. "What makes you think this is good?" said the farmer.
As told by Executive editor, Elise Hancock, in the Johns Hopkins Magazine, November 1993, page 2, in section entitled Editor's Note
I am not sure what the good part is yet but I know I will find it!